Imperial Motor Mounts, '6x - '66

MOPAR Part Numbers #2128571 and -2

Illustration below from 1966 Chrysler-Imperial Factory Service Manual, page 9-5

1966 Factory Service Manual Drawing

Motor Mount Experiences

last updated July 15, 2005


1.    The motor mounts for my '66 LeBaron, and other later Imperials with a separate frame ('60 - '66), are MOPAR P/N# 2128571 and -2.  The 2128572 (right) and 2128571 (left) mounts were used for Imperial and Chrysler "long wheelbase" cars (the mounting foot tabs point toward the front of the car).

Note: Many parts books list MOPAR 2402182 [right] and 2465861 [left] or NAPA 1180 [or 2250] as applicable to '66 Imperials - this is incorrect. The 1966 uses the same, old-style mounts as the earlier cars and there is no known after-market equivalent. 

There are very similar motor mounts for other, older MOPARs - 2120237 and 2120238.  These are nearly identical, except the mounting foot faces to the rear rather than the front, as shown above.  The 2120238 (right) and 2120237 (left) parts were used for some 1960 - 62 Chryslers.  These are referred to as "short wheelbase" cars and the tabs point toward the rear of the car. 

According to Chris Hawkins, the "long wheelbase" (126") Chryslers from 1960-62 shared their front suspension parts and engine mounts with the Imperial for these years. They even shared inner fender liners and radiator supports! The long wheel base models were the 1960 Saratoga, New Yorker and 300-F, 1961 New Yorker and 300-G, and 1962 New Yorker. In 1963, all Chryslers were on the shorter 122" wheelbase.

2.    As shown above, these older mounts are massive assemblies, with a "U" shaped steel piece that bolts to the block. Inside this piece, two large chunks of rubber surround a upright "L" shaped piece of steel that bolts to the frame.  If you need motor mounts, check this illustration against the mounts on your Imperial.  If your parts store or mechanic thinks they have the right part, compare it to this picture!

3.    Because of the design of these mounts, it's unlikely that a motor mount failure - where the rubber deteriorates or breaks - will cause a loose or hazardous engine. Instead, the engine will settle on the bottom "L" shaped steel piece, but otherwise be fairly secure under low loads. However, the radiator fan may also strike the fan shroud and you'll feel more engine vibration.

4.   For earlier Imperials, George McIntosh wrote:

I have a 1956 354 2-door hardtop, Crown. I live near Hickory, NC. I do not know if you know about Hot Heads from Lowgap, NC. They specialize in old hemis, and I think you can find reproduced motor mounts or NOS. Their address is HOTHEADS Research and Racing, Inc., 276 Walkers Hollow Trail, Lowgap, NC 27024. Telephone 336-352-4866, Fax 336-352-3892, and their website is Please let me know if this helps.

Replacement Options

If you need to replace your mounts, the options are:

1.    NOS - new mounts are very hard to find and very expensive. I was quoted $250 by Mitchell Motors for one mount and only one was available  when I called.  Other Imperial owners have obtained new motor mounts from Brad's NOS at similar high prices.  I personally will not buy simple parts at inflated prices. 

Early in 1998, I heard that Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (315 Franklin St., Newton MA 02458, 617-244-1118) was having these mounts re-manufactured, but this was not confirmed when I called and I have not recently followed up.  Atlas Motor Parts is also rumored to be considering a re-manufacturing project, but currently has nothing firm.

2.    Used motor mounts can be a solution, but risky. In mid 1997 I bought and installed used mounts from a local source - but these used parts collapsed after only two weeks!  Sources are:

Bob Hoffmeister, Box 23 Route 2, St. Edwards, NE 68660. Phone 402-678-2635, email to:

Murray Park, HIGHWAY ONE OH ONE. 4369 S. TWP Road 151, Tiffin, OH 44883-9301, Phone 419-448-0293, Fax 419-443-1082, e-mail to:

Wayne Maddox, Maddox Vintage Autos and Parts, 5591 East 72nd Avenue, Commerce City, CO 80022-1519. Phone 303-288-2682, email to:

Lowell G. Howe, Box 1432, 16218 Sycamore, Patterson, CA 95363, Phone 209-892-3464. Kenyon Wills wrote: "Lowell Howe has done so (rebuilding motor mounts), using what he claims to be the best material - rubber, I think, as opposed to polyurethane for most others' offerings. He has 20 or so hanging on his wall. He will request a core or charge $50 extra." (February, 2001)

Dr. MOPAR,  5296 Schuelke Road, Kyle, TX 78640.  Phone 512-376-5321, after 8pm. e-mail to: Web site is

Lawrence & Rodney Butler, 5008 Patterson Avenue, Perris, California 92571. Phone 909-940-9281.  Located in Riverside County outside of Riverside adjacent to March AFB, off the Interstate 215 at the Oleander exit. 

Douglas Gilfillan wrote, "They have a slew of Chryslers & Imperials dating from 1954 to 1970. Open Saturday & Sunday only at 10:00 AM. The Butler brothers are very helpful and accommodating and they will remove the parts you need. Plus they have trailers and a warehouse full of items available on shelves."

"Last time I was there they had a 56 Imperial Newport that they were going to restore as it was not available for parts. They are terrific guys. They have a warehouse full of stuff besides the football field size yard they have there full of Imperials. Perris is south of Riverside on Interstate 215. Moreno Valley. The Butler boys are into Chrysler 300s, Imperials, DeSotos, Chryslers etc."

"The Butler Bros. have an international following as Europeans even go there and buy the whole car body and have it shipped overseas."

"Another place for Mopars that I would recommend is G&G Mopars in Colton, CA (909-825-1231) Ernie & Gary."

"I would also recommend ATLAS AUTO SALVAGE, 11801 Sherman Way, North Hollywood (between Sherman Way & Lankershim Blvd.) They deal exclusively with Chrysler parts. Their phone is 818-765-6666. Ask for Tom. I got a lot of Imperial parts from them in recent months. They are open Monday to Friday. (Tom likes to play golf on weekends) They do a lot of business with restoration shops."

Dr. Mike Bullock, retired, a member of Imperial Owners of Northern California, 12901 Pierce Road, Saratoga, CA 95070. Phone 408-867-4539.  Doc Bullock has parts stored and for sale from more than 100 Imperials which he dismantled.

Alan Szypura, "I don't have as much as most of the suppliers like Bob Hoffmeister, but here is an idea of what I have - '55-'75 small used items, wheel covers, engine parts, exterior and interior trim, etc." 1018 Starview Drive, Rockford, IL 61108. Phone 815-398-4553, e-mail to  David Whitfield wrote: "Not only was Alan quick with shipping, but the parts were in very good condition and reasonably priced. If anything, he under described the condition I found them to be in. I made my decision to purchase the parts from him after a referral by Elijah Scott. An honest and pleasant part supplier is hard to come by these days. I found Alan to be both."

3.    Total Replacement Mounts - see the story about Steve Charette's Imperial Services below.  Excellent!

4.    Rebonding (re-vulcanizing) - The Damper Doctor, 1055 Parkview Ave. Redding, CA 96001-3314; phone 530-246-2984, fax 530-246-2987.  John confirmed that they can rebond these motor mounts:

"I not only do motor mounts - which by the way have gone to $99.95 each or $170.00/ pair, these things use a lot of rubber - I also do harmonic balancers and drive shaft supports for these cars. The Damper Doctor, e-mail to: Damper Doctor - Your source for engine and motor harmonic balancers and dampers."

In late May, 1999, I found another, very knowledgeable source that can also rebuild your mounts or cores:
Antique Auto Parts Cellar
PO Box 3, 6 Chauncy St.
South Weymouth MA 02190

Phone 781-335-1579
Fax 781-335-1925
They explained that there are 3 Chrysler/Imperial mounts that resemble each other, only differing in the attachment to the frame (2120237/2120238 and 2128571/2128572 and ?*) but they rebuild all three - just check carefully if you have bought old mounts as cores to make sure you have the right mount. The cost is $145/pair and they will do one, if that's all you need.  They also offer re-vulcanizing for many other MOPAR engine, transmission and driveline mounts.

In the July, 2000 issue of "Hemmings Motor News", p. 5251, their ad listed 2120237/2120238 and 2128571/2128572 as available for "(rl) 1960-66 V-8" Mopars at $145 per pair.

In February, 2001, John Meyer wrote:

"I have a '65 Crown 4-door, and I had the motor mounts rebuilt in 1997 at Then & Now Automotive for $159.50 including return shipping. Good as new. They are in Weymouth, Mass. The number on my receipt is 614-335-8860.


Also on this rebonding topic, a very knowledgeable fabricator suggested using two-pack urethane to "re-bond" old motor mounts after cutting or burning off the old rubber.  Although Steve Charette has reported no success with this approach, it's another good experimental project!

*Anyone with a parts book who can identify other similar motor mounts and application?

5.    Fabrication - after the failure of my "used" mounts, I had my original mounts as an extra set. A few Imperial owners told me they have made entirely new motor mounts or fabricated adapters to use other, still available MOPAR mounts.  One suggestion was to use Dodge truck mounts, which are NAPA 602-1170.

Gary Goers suggested one approach for fabricating an adapter. An email from his shop (37 Amdahl Lane, Kalispell, MT 59901, phone 406-752-6249, said:

"Gary says he wouldn't have anything to do with those old motor mounts. Just get later model 440 mounts, bolt them to the engine. With the engine supported on a jack on the proper spot, make a pattern out of cardboard for brackets to connect the motor mount to the K-frame. Take to a welding shop for fabrication. When these go bad, you can retrieve new ones at the parts store cheap."

At the Spring Fling 1998, I bought another set of used motor mounts (not very expensive) and lent these to DynaTech Engineering (PO Box 1446, Alta Loma, CA 91701-8446, 805-492-6134).  This company makes improved motor mounts for many "B", "C" and "E" bodied MOPARs and expressed an interest in possibly making these #2128571 and -2 parts.  After a few months, I called to check on progress and they apologized, saying their machines could not make these parts.  They returned the cores, so I now have almost  two extra sets of cores.

My Adapter Project

Here's what I tried to make adapters that DID NOT work at first, but the final step is a winner!

1.   I took the original mounts removed from my '66 LeBaron to a friend in Lake Havasu City, AZ.  Among Colin's other skills, he's built entire cars from scratch! After looking at the used mounts, he asked what the current 440 MOPAR mounts are like.

2.    We went to the local NAPA and bought a pair of these later mounts. These were NAPA Ballkamp No. 602-1118, $15/pair. It looked like they used 2 of the 3 mounting holes as my original mounts for the 440 block, but were obviously about 3" too short to reach the frame.

3.    Colin took the original mounts and "disassembled" one with a torch. He took the bottom, "L" shaped piece and, after measuring the height needed from the other mount, cut about 1" off the top of this piece. He then cut a 1" square from the center of this piece to clear the new mounting stud. He made a 1.5" x 3" plate to fit the bottom of the new mounts, drilled a hole for the stud, and welded this to the top of the "L" piece. The 1" hole previously cut allowed the new motor mount stud to fit to the this assembly, fastened by a self-locking nut. He then welded in two gussets between the vertical part of the "L" bracket and this new "shelf" for strength.

4.    Total time involved for both mount adapters was about 4 hours. Although Colin is very skilled, some of this time was measuring and fitting. Welding, cutting and heavy drilling are involved. Other fabricators should be able to make similar parts in less than 4 hours.

5.    I hoped the result would be an adapter that would provide a low-cost and long-term solution for motor mounts for older Imperials. I also thought a "shroud" could cover up this adapter and make the assembly look like an original part for show purposes.

6.    After trying to fit these adapters on the car back in Burbank (see section 2 below), it's obvious we should have started from the top down - using the "U" piece to bolt to the block and fabricating the rest.   I planned to get Colin's help again to weld a piece across the top of the "U" piece, drill a hole to fit the mounting stud of a NAPA 602-1170 (1972 Dodge truck) motor mount and use the "L" piece already re-worked by Colin for the bottom part.  I've tried this as a dummy assembly and it sure looks like it will work!  A sketch of this is at the bottom of this page.   The adapter that Colin made is on the lower right.  The "bridge" was the next planned step.  The 602-1170 part is on the upper right.

7.    November, 2001 - In the homestretch!  I visited Bruce Kimmins over the Thanksgiving holiday and he completed the right/passenger side motor mount just like the sketch below.  Only painting, photography and installation remained.  A final report was to appear here sometime in 2002!  Has this really been a four-year project?

8.    November, 2002 - After much procrastinating, the adapter was painted and photographed - see below.  On November 5, 2002, Greg's Tune-Up (Victory Blvd., Burbank) replaced the old, through-bolted mount without any fuss.  First drive - smooth as an Imperial should be!


1.    In July 1997, during an AC compressor replacement, the mechanic probably banged the PS pump a few times. It was leaking when I got the car back; he did not take any responsibility so I decided to fix it myself.  The rebuilt pump bearing seized and I took the Imp to a new mechanic,  Bob's Automotive (no relation!) near the Burbank airport, to look at the pump and the motor mounts. Bob noticed a new leak at the inlet port weld of the PS pump!

2.    I dropped the car off with the 2 motor mount "adapters" that had been fabricated by Colin in Arizona.  As noted above, this did not work because the "new" MOPAR mounts omit one of the locating bolts - the bottom one. Bob thought this was critical, so he suggested using a hot rodder's technique of putting a bolt through the existing, weak mounts to strengthen them. This was better than my broken mounts, but some engine vibration came through.

3.    As shown in the FSM illustration above, heat shields are part of the motor mount assembly and are important to protect the motor mount rubber from grease and manifold heat.

Tony Vickers' Adapters

Tony wrote: "I thought you might be interested to know how things have developed with my motor mounts."

"Although I have a pair of original mounts at the Damper Doc's being re-bonded at the moment, I am an impatient man. Since my re-built engine was ready to re-fit and I don't know how long it will take for the re-bonded mounts to arrive, I decided to experiment with an alternative. I followed your own train of thought and bought a pair of 440 mounts and then designed a bracket to fasten them to the chassis. I figured that the guy who advised you that the missing third hole on the 440 mounts was important had a point, so I found a specialist welder who was able to extend the mount to incorporate a "wing" with a third bolt hole without damaging the bonding. The same welder also made the chassis brackets for me in 10 gauge steel."

Tony's V's Adapter

On the bench

Tony's V's Adapter - in place

In the car

"The engine is now installed with the experimental brackets in place and first impressions are good. The engine runs smooth and quiet and there are no unpleasant vibrations. I have attached a photo showing the brackets and extended mounts on the bench and another in situ. If you think they would be of use on your web site motor mount guide please feel free to use them. I can also send you drawings and measurements if you like."

I commented: "From the pictures, I'd guess you used the NAPA Ballkamp No. 602-1118 mounts which only bolt up to one of the two points on the engine. As mentioned in my "motor mount quest" story, the mechanic I asked to install my adapters thought it needed both points attached.  You mentioned your welder created a "wing" to do this. Now that your job is done, do you think this "wing" and both bolts are necessary or would the single bolt be OK?"

And Tony replied: "To tell the truth, I don't really know how important the second mounting point is. My feeling is that it adds a little extra stability to the mount and places a more even stress on the rubber to metal bond. Since the addition of the "wing" and extra mounting hole is relatively simple and inexpensive, I would go for the belt and braces option."

(Editor's note: Nice work, Tony!)

Steve Charette's Adapters

In September 1999, Steve Charette, Imperial Services, built a prototype of the original "Floating Power" motor mounts.  These look great - contact Steve to encourage his further production of these needed pieces!  Check his pictures of the mounts:

1960-1966 Chrysler Imperial "Floating Power" Replacement Mounts

Next, Steve fabricated adapters to use readily-available motor mounts - check the pictures on his web site for "Harnessed Power".

"Finally have some firm information on the conversion mounts for the "Floating Power" engine mounts, which I (late one night) nicknamed "Harnessed Power" mounts, after looking at a pile of failed originals on my workbench.

Not to say that the originals were not a superior design for the time, just that our friends at the old Chrysler Corporation probably never envisioned such huge interest in these cars 40 years in the future... and that 40 years later these monsters would still be running, much less seeing duty as daily drivers, racers, show cars, museum pieces and the like... and still making enough power to tear up engine mounts!

At any rate, these conversions are intended to replace the originals in cars that see regular driving or severe duty. They do not appear as the originals, but are much less expensive than originals, replacements, or repair of originals. In addition, they are easily serviceable in the event of an insulator failure, the insulators are readily available, and should continue to be available for a long time to come. This leaves the good originals, and repaired parts for those wishing to maintain original appearance.

The conversion mount kit consists of the 3 piece set, and all fasteners for one side of the engine. The mount is designed to use the readily available 1972-1978 Dodge Truck engine insulator. The upper and lower brackets are fabricated of new steel and are powder-coated black. Specify left or right side, and long or short wheelbase, unless ordering a pair.

Pairs are simply reversed to fit either long or short wheelbase. The 1979-1993 insulators feature built in strain relief, and are available for an extra $6 per side. See the web page for a visual comparison of the insulators before ordering. You can use this link,

List price is $60 each. An introductory price of $50 each is offered to members of the Imperial, 300, and Forward Look lists until March 1st, 2000.

Please contact me at if you have any questions. Orders can be sent to my address below.  Please include a check or money order, and add $5 shipping for each mount. I am not currently able to take credit card orders. Parts will ship in 1-2 weeks - let me know if you are in a rush, and if paid by money order, I'll ship as soon as possible.

Please feel free to call me at my home if you have additional questions or concerns - 517-652-6309. Leave a message, and I'll return your call ASAP.

One last thing - the replacement (original appearance) mounts should be ready soon (after many delays). I'll keep you posted!! See 1960-1966 Chrysler Imperial "Floating Power" Replacement Mounts

Thanks again for all the support and interest,

Steve Charette
Imperial Services
P. O. Box 112
Frankenmuth, MI 48734"

(Editor's Note - Terrific! On September 20, 2000, Steve sent me a sample pair of the "Harnessed Power" motor mounts/adapters and they look great.  I planned to have a user-report as soon as they were installed in my '66 Imperial!  Just two weeks later, Alison Ikeler had an emergency need for motor mounts for her '62 Imperial Crown, so Steve's "Harnessed Power" motor mounts/adapters are now in Alison's car and working well.  However, Alison reported a failure early in 2001 and Steve will be investigating the cause.  In October 2001, Steve had completed "Floating Power" reproductions for testing, which will be done by an very experienced Imperial owner in Tennessee.)

Don Savard's Adapters

In April, 2000 I met with Don Savard (Santa Maria, CA) who looked at my partly completed adapters and explained how his mechanic also started with the NAPA Ballkamp No. 602-1118 mounts and successfully bolted these to the motor and then built an adapter from the mount to the frame.

My Imperial - Finally Fixed!

1.    In December 1998, Restorations by Julius found 2 mounts for me at a very reasonable price - unfortunately 2 left (driver's) ones! Julius put on one in April 1999 and he still has the other. Replacing just one mount, which had been through-bolted (described above), made a big difference in eliminating vibration.  As noted above, I finished the adapter (pictured below) for the right mount. It works and should be a permanent cure for the problem.

By the way, I've had nothing but good work at Restorations by Julius, a shop specializing in MOPARs. Julius Steuer can be reached also at 818-882-2825 and is located at 10101 1/2 Canoga Avenue, Chatsworth, CA 91311. He's also very close to an Amtrak station, so don't hesitate to bring your Imperial from Virginia and take the train home!

2.    After checking several Chrysler 300 letter cars at recent shows, I've confirmed that some of these use the same motor mounts as this series of Imperials, as mentioned above.  If you know of other MOPAR applications for these parts or if you can cross-reference any P/N's (or have any advice on these motor mounts), send me a note!   Thanks!

Bob (Burbank, California)

Partial Update, July, 2005

Bob's Adapter - Now Installed!

Bob's Motor Mount Adapter - Passenger Side

Plan for Adapter

Planned Fabrication

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